Sole Systems 008: Packable Footwear
Beyond Functionality
Words by Madison Killough
Packable footwear, with its diverse specifications, continually pushes the limits of function and comfort. These shoes are often designed to be packable, efficient, comfortable, and ideal for travel, often using lightweight materials and a low-profile design. While earlier archival models may not have prioritised environmental efficiency, it is now a core principle for many contemporary designers within this category. By merging innovative, futuristic aesthetics with practical functionality, packable footwear represents a hyper-functional and inherently ecological approach. At its core, it aims to make our lives better while serving a variety of purposes.
Category 1 : Transformative
At one end of the spectrum, shoes in this category surpass packability and offer transformative functions. They encourage engagement and alternative structures, exceeding typical user interaction with footwear. One example is the Mahabis Slippers, which are designed to be adaptable for indoor and outdoor use through their removable rubber soles that fasten to the base of the slipper at the back of the shoe. This adaptive quality is also seen in the Merrell Hut Moc 2, which zip together to hide the uppers creating a single, packable pod. Alternatively, the Suicoke x Needles SS19 Geta Sandal has interlockable outsoles that are potentially more useful for travelling as they conceal areas exposed to dirt. Furthering this method, the collaboration between Nicole McLaughlin and Diemme introduces expandability with a base shoe and three accompanying detachable gaiters that transform into bags, adapting to diverse daily environments.
Category 2 : Soft Forms
A more subdued iteration in this category focuses on soft forms, which, while not necessarily designed with packability in mind, feature soft uppers that are inherently compact and travel-friendly. These designs prioritise ease of wear and comfort, evolving from the slippers we primarily wear at home. Notable examples for outdoor-wear include the Yeezy Pods, Balenciaga’s 90MM Sock Booties and Speed Trainers, Issey Miyake’s United Nude Bounce Boots, and Vetements Sock Trainers – all featuring (predominantly black) knit membranes with rubber soles. For home-wear, designs like the Subu Packable Slippers offer a cushioned Teflon-coated upper for water resistance, an elastic collar, and a packable travel bag. The flexible, utilitarian design of these styles allows the uppers to be folded for easy transport, creating a futuristic silhouette that blurs the line between socks and shoes.
Category 3 : Flatpacking
While transformative elements and soft forms lend themselves to resource-friendly practices, some brands have been utilising methods that directly address our impact on the environment. Flat-packing is a prime example of this, playing a crucial role in ecological efforts by minimising material waste and optimising transport efficiency. Variations of flat packing have been seen in designs such as Issey Miyake’s flatpack slippers, which feature moulded rubber soles and an elastic neoprene upper that sits flat when not in use, and United Nude’s conceptual collaboration with Spanish performance artist Alicia Framis. Designed by Rem Koolhaas, United Nude's “Moon Life” carbon fibre wedges can be assembled in under 10 minutes and nod to an intergalactic future.
The packable approach is echoed across industries as brands increasingly prioritise efficiency in their operations. Its expansion is most evident in technical wear where pieces are designed to support performance activities and transitional needs. Currently, we see brands such as ROA, Post Archive Faction, Pas Normal, and Bottega Veneta releasing intentionally packable jackets – emphasising functionality and packability through their form. The rise of packable design may be directly attributed to innovations within the furniture industry. In the 1950s, brands like Ikea began developing ready-to-assemble furniture that would be fundamentally flat-packable. This approach has been echoed across many iconic pieces, including the modular systems of Vitsoe shelving, the removable legs in Alvar Aalto stools, the inflatable lampshade in the Glowblow Floor Lamp, and the compressible pleats found in Isamu Noguchi’s Akari series. The movement towards packability in industrial design was further propelled by the emergence of CAD drawings, which enabled designers to optimise furniture designs for efficient production and packaging. Overall, flat-packing has provided a significant shift in the design industries and offers a balance of efficiency, affordability, and convenience.
As the demand for adaptability, compression technology, and ongoing material innovation increases, the category of packable footwear is expected to continue its expansion. This growth is driven by a growing awareness of our impact on the environment and a strong preference for comfort and practicality, shaping consumer decisions. The shift towards remote work in the post-COVID digital era also emphasises the need for versatile, comfortable footwear suitable for both indoor and outdoor activities. Looking ahead, we can anticipate the fashion industry to prioritise the development of lightweight and portable designs to effectively meet the evolving demands of modern lifestyles and ecological objectives. We can only theorise that new advancements in materials and technologies will amplify the adaptability found in packable footwear. Will their materials become regenerative and compressible? Will they utilise unified materials capable of forming all of the components in a shoe? Or will they come in a small, pocketable container, ready to be grown or inflated on demand? We will see.
