Between The Lines 023: OAO
Structures + Senses with Shin Miura
Words by Madison Killough
In light of OAO’s recently released SUNLIGHT CORE model, we spoke with Shin Miura – one of the brand’s founding members – to discuss the Japanese brand’s take on materiality, architecture, and design philosophy…
The brand, which launched in 2020, is based in both Tokyo and Kyoto and is focused on developing sneakers that “move the soul”. Their designs are exceptionally comfortable, visually refined, and rooted in traditional Japanese philosophies that emphasise minimalistic harmony. Miura notes that “unlike typical sneaker designs that often use flashy colours and excessive layering of fabrics and parts, OAO shoe designs avoid such elements”. Instead, they focus on “subtle nuances, such as the beautiful interplay between materials and the balance of gradation between layers”. Furthermore, their concepts are born from “art, architecture, and structural object” references, rather than an intended use-case. This ethos results in footwear that seamlessly merges sculptural aesthetics with practical functionality, creating “calm yet timeless designs” that integrate into the wearer’s lifestyle.
“The unique minimalism seen in the aesthetics of Japanese subtraction and the wabi-sabi philosophy seems to form the basis of our design.”
The brand’s philosophy goes beyond aesthetics, emphasising the profound impact that well-designed footwear can have on our emotional and physical well-being. “OAO’s purpose”, says Miura, ”is to foster an environment where people can maintain physical and mental health while staying creative in their modern lives". This is achieved by drawing inspiration from the “beautifully primitive and comfortable senses” found in “arts, crafts, architecture, and nature”. By combining this considered approach with advanced construction techniques and high-quality materials, OAO creates subdued yet impactful pieces that balance concept and functionality.
Across OAO’s brand initiatives, there is an obvious emphasis on make and materiality. Their shoes, known for their cleanly layered uppers and soft rubber soles, are designed to endure both aesthetically and practically. This is achieved through a rigorous design process and an essentialist perspective on purpose. Miura explains that they primarily use leather for the uppers because of their factory’s expertise in crafting leather shoes, allowing them to benefit from “high-quality leather processing and sewing.” As for their soles, OAO predominantly uses “Vibram soles that offer optimal cushioning and grip”, making them optimal “for urban living” and day-to-day comfort. This may change, however, as Miura mentions that the brand is currently developing their first original sole.
“During the process of creating samples, we often strip away unnecessary elements. We consider the design's timelessness and how it changes with everyday wear, much like the concept of ‘functional beauty’, which is a very important perspective for us.”
While their shoes are imbued with structural concepts and Japanese minimalism, OAO’s shoe collection offers diverse performance features like water-repellency, heat retention, and slip resistance. These qualities are often echoed in each shoe’s name and design. For example, the water-inspired FOUNTAIN sneaker serves as a mini-architectural structure, offering protection from the elements. It cohesively features a waterproof nylon and oil-coated leather upper, supported by a 5.8cm sole to minimise water ingress. Furthering the model’s relation to water, the shoe’s stitchwork takes inspiration from "ripples of water droplets" and "the clean lines created by rakes in Japanese gardens". Extending this concept further, its launch campaign featured large, semi-transparent sculptures reminiscent of water droplets, emphasising the synthesis of form and function akin to architectural principles.
With this perspective, Miura highlights the intrinsic relationship between architecture and footwear. He emphasises that “shoes are unique because their shape and design are complete even when they are not being worn” and notes that “OAO's design approach is strongly influenced by spatial and interior design.” This notion permeates OAO’s entire collection, starting with their inaugural model, THE CURVE 1, which Miura cites as being “inspired by Zaha Hadid’s architectural style.” Rooted in a Japanese methodology of spatial and structural harmony, a central tenet of their philosophy is to consider the sensory experience offered by their “self-standing shoes” and the atmospheric essence cultivated in the environments where OAO shoes are placed.
“As three-dimensional objects that support human life, shoes share commonalities with architecture. Therefore, the design, structure, aesthetics, and materials of actual architecture often hide many hints for shoe design. ”
This approach to structure is exemplified in their flagship store, OAO Haus. The impeccably designed space balances natural elements with industrial modernism, emphasising materiality through the use of raw aluminium, rocks, and glass. Inspired by feedback from customers who describe their shoes as inducing a "floating" sensation, OAO crafted the space to evoke this feeling. Situated on the third floor and enveloped by windows, the store creates an illusion of weightlessness, reinforcing the brand’s distinctive design ethos.
Continuing to investigate the relationship between structure and the senses, OAO recently introduced the SUNLIGHT CORE model. Rooted in Japanese design principles and references, Miura notes that the SUNLIGHT CORE model draws inspiration from “Isamu Noguchi’s intense sculptures” in contrast with its predecessor, SUNLIGHT, which was “inspired by the soft feel of Noguchi’s Akari lights.” According to Miura, the SUNLIGHT CORE encapsulates the essence of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, exemplified by meticulous details such as its “dog-ear design,” curved stitching, and the use of “authentic leather shoe-making techniques.” This model not only represents OAO's evolution in footwear but also embodies the brand's approach to philosophy, materiality, and structures. It strives “to convey the craftsmanship and warmth of traditional Japanese crafts" while maintaining “an extremely simple impression” by concealing what Miura describes as “unnecessary external parts.”
“Bold stitching lines run across the shoe, striking a balance between minimalism and playful design, allowing you to enjoy the essence of Japanese craftsmanship.”
Additionally, the SUNLIGHT CORE features Vibram’s latest Zermatt Sole, which Miura notes is “thinner than the soles on previous OAO models.” Designed for trail running, the Zermatt sole is lightweight, flexible, and offers a more subdued physical presence. Combined with “a one-piece leather upper, the shoe moulds to your foot over time, providing an increasingly snug and comfortable fit.” This combination of leather and rubber offers a beautifully balanced dichotomy, pairing a highly technical trekking sole with a meticulously stitched, grained leather upper and polished metal fasteners.
Beyond merely connecting with the structures around us, OAO's shoes aim to "soothe the mind" through their thoughtful, undulating designs, in alignment with traditional Japanese philosophy. As the brand expands, Miura underscores the importance of “sustaining the quality and culture of Japan”. This harmonious blend of structure and meaningful histories is evident in each shoe, which balances soft and hard elements, progressive functionality and aesthetics, and a contemporary approach imbued with echoes of the past.