Starting Five: Product Highlights [April]
Givenchy, Y3, Reebok, New Balance & Valentino
Starting Five is a new series where we spotlight recent product highlights that have caught our attention. Staying up to date with footwear releases is almost a full-time job these days, especially with the current pace of drops, rumours and leaks. Here at CONCEPTKICKS® we only spotlight the product that moves us, that sparks excitement or conversation within the studio. Often, this product deserves a little more attention than the fleeting-likes of social media.
Exaggerated volume, construction-by-hand and unlikely influences; the CONCEPTKICKS® team have syphoned away the fog to reveal five current iterations of footwear that showcase these artisanal qualities.
The materials used in the current footwear industry continue to evolve with varying degrees of technological adaptation and unorthodox thinking. From macramé crocheting to injection EVA, there appears to be no letting up from the giants of the industry when it comes to boundary-pushing design. The qualities of great architectural outcomes continue to be seen throughout the industry, and our selection of highlights is no exception.
While subdued colourways allows these shoes to go unnoticed when needed, their attention to detail and tendency towards intrigue set them apart in the crowded market that we experience today. Blurring the lines between being a shoe and an object, these shoes encapsulate the form of sculptures and wholeheartedly embrace the natural passage of time.
Here’s a little update on the details you may have missed with the speed of your feed - five product highlights we can’t stop thinking about...
Givenchy Monumental Mallow
The birth of this project began with Matthew William’s vision of creating a unique silhouette with the house’s new “marshmallow” technology (fully injected expansion EVA). The goal was to create a large sculptural volume but still keeping it light and comfortable for the height of the shoe, which features a 10.5cm heel and an additional 5.5 cm plateau.
This unique silhouette shape has really caught our attention over the last few weeks. With the rise that we’ve witnessed in one-piece EVA moulds, it’s invigorating to see designers continuing to push the possibilities of proportion through different methods of covering the foot. The internal structure of the Monumental Mallow is reinforced so as to not collapse under the weight of the user while special factories were partnered with to achieve the gloss finish shown on some of the models; a welcome addition to the moulded EVA world.
Reebok Zig 3D Storm Hydro
The dynamic team behind Reebok Special Projects continue to push what we consider to be excellent proportion lead design. This latest offering is a continuation of the the team’s in-line collection and sits on the newly developed Zig 2.0 midsole with updated TPU side walls and outsole. With inspiration drawing from ideas in shelter and protection, the Zig 3D Storm Hydro’s most notable feature is the ShelterShield shroud. Covering the traditional lacing set-up, the shroud wraps over the forefoot and locks onto a heel hook on the medial side.
Lead by designers Evan Belforti and Ryan Forsyth the team used water shoes and soccer cleats as a primary reference for this model, combining these ideas with Reebok’s Winter Runner III from 2000. The result is a sleek-but-not-slim, voluminous-but-not-chunky silhouette which fuses the taste of early ‘00s tech with modern proportionally.
New Balance 2002RD
Released in 2010, the New Balance 2002 was originally created as a performance running shoe with a midsole that features both ABZORB and N-rgy cushioning technology. With the recent resurgence of retro runners the newly updated 2002R silhouette slots in well with current consumer preferences. Helped considerably through heavy collaborations with the likes of Salehe Bembury and ThisIsNeverThat® this model seems poised to continue the popularity that the 990 legacy of New Balance runners has shown over recent years.
This latest iteration is the 2002RD designed by Yue Wu that plays with the theme of “Refined Future”. With the goal of creating timeless energy for this model, the designer looked towards their heritage. In particular noticing the way that old folks would rock their NB’s across the streets of Boston. Pairs that had been held onto for so long that they were beginning to deteriorate and show serious signs of wear. Inspired by this idea of NB’s being such great quality that they could last a lifetime, the designer decided to showcase this longevity on the shoe. By pre-distressing the shoes the hope is to encourage people to go out and wear their shoes more without worry of ruining them first. Release dates are still unknown at this stage, but this concept is definitely something we can get behind.
Valentino Garavani Crochet Sneakers
The fully hand-knitted Garavani Sneaker demonstrates the house’s experimental vision of blending tradition with the avant-garde. Showcasing their artisanal craftsmanship through an ASMR heavy process video, we witness the upper being assembled through a meticulous series of crocheting movements. In particular it features a macramé technique that is more often seen on couture gowns.
Each of the handmade uppers is then resin treated and bounded to a specially engineered VLogo signature sole unit. It takes over 10 hours, 88 needles and 100 metres of wire to complete each pair. Available in a vibrant assortment of summer ready colours, the handcrafted sneakers are available over here.
Y-3 Runner 4D ioW
Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas’ sportswear line have continually pushed the envelope in what we appreciate in footwear: innovative construction and unconventional silhouettes. This latest iteration is a continuation of the "inside/outside" story that was started last season. It features removable inner primeknit socks and a see-through upper material that reveals the inside of the shoe.
The team posed the question of “how do you reveal the beauty of an object by covering it?". Working with this idea the upper partially wraps the heavy-textured midsole while exposing the inside of the shoe in forefoot windows. This contrast in detail and texture helps to tell the story behind the shoes but also creates a very unique feel about them. By reducing the amount of visible midsole, it actually highlights the 4D in a way that previous models did not. The over-lasted upper also creates moments of tension where the material flows over the midsole, as seen near the heel counter. We’re excited to see where this construction method can go and the new found possibilities in manipulating traditional footwear forms.
