Trust The Process: Yohji Yamamoto x Adidas
A Pairing For The History Books
Before solidifying a prosperous and ever evolving joint venture in 2003 under the title of Y-3 (consciously titled using a combination of both the infamous Japanese designers initial, and the 3 stripes adopted by the notorious German sportswear label), there were plenty of collaborative efforts engineered before the official label many now know and love, was officially formed.
Utilising the forward thinking initiatives of the Adidas label, Yohji Yamamoto was granted further possibilities of modern design based on the materials, manufacturing technology and array of archival sporting silhouettes which the brand had to offer. In the process, this allowed Yamamoto to explore and develop new directions within his renowned craft and thus spawn a blend of modern meets classic products with strong focus on high quality and somewhat futuristic design for the 21st century consumer.
Although Y-3 is a fashion designer-sportswear collaboration, which arguably set the tone for many to follow suit, its ongoing venture found success through its loyal audience which has been accumulated in recent years and it has ultimately been the core of its strong DNA. A selection of the following silhouettes in this article preceded the Y-3 years, but still combined the efforts of the Japanese avant-garde mastermind and the German founded sportswear heavyweights.
Adidas x Yohji Yamamoto YY Promodel 2G
Adidas have always been at the forefront of developing footwear for athletes and dabbling sportswear enthusiasts alike, this particular pair being a take on the Promodel 2G basketball trainer, are an enhanced version in true Yamamoto fashion. Carrying over the prolific design feature of the shell toe which holds more than just its physical form, but also its importance visually in style and culture for many years. Proving to be an elevated adaptation with the material choices, which will be an ongoing aspect across many of these models, and the colour palette chosen, these stylistic but court ready trainers were clearly chosen as they perfectly blend the focal points of both the brand and the designer harmoniously.
Current Adidas Pro Model 2G Low tooling
Topping off the YY Promodel 2G is its archival inspired colour way of black & yellowed white; a foreshadowing of current footwear design motifs, thanks to the rise of the vintage influence. Just up from the notoriously recognisable 3 stripes, the Yohji Yamamoto signature can be seen embellished in signification of the partnership. A simple, effective and recurring theme that ties the cult-classic design insignias of the partnering brands.
Adidas x Yohji Yamamoto YY Trail Boot
This pair of incredible sneaker-boot hybrids is a true ode to the genius of the two brands working on footwear for the modern wearer. The shoe perfectly encapsulates the merge of the grit of traversing the great outdoors and effortlessly navigating the runway with ease, formed of a technical combination of suede, leather, rubberised toe trim and multiple reconsidered hardware details in the form of a full front zip and back lacing system, culminating in an ever Yohji monochromatic finish of all black.
The mid calf height on top of the substantially treaded sole makes for a distinct shoe, especially when the front zip and rear lace up system are combined. Decked out with the leather 3 stripes subtly placed in the mid section of what looks to be a brushed suede upper, the silhouette itself is heavily reminiscent of vintage Adidas boxing lace up boots, but of course intertwined with a strong rework. The cut out segments add a sense of costume which stands out from other models, and the lack of overall branding really draws us into the detailing in order to appreciate the crafting of such a unique iteration of the trail boot.
Adidas x Yohji Yamamoto Traxion High Ankle Combat
This model is some what of a stray from the others on this list, predominantly due to the fact that the boot itself is so heavily inspired by military use combat boots, and to the untrained eye, it almost seems far removed from usual Adidas characteristics. However, this is a prime example of how Yamamoto’s design prowess allowed this partnership to flourish into what we see today as Y-3. For example, the obvious and obsessive attention to detail such as the way the lacing system changes from eyelets to hooks for a more stable fastening, or the slight change in material to partition the leather upper. The most interesting aspect of this particular silhouette is the sole; not only is it functional for a boot but it is also a rubberised version and features style lines throughout, drawing attention to the difference from a regular combat boot, and that of a concisely Yhoji take on the style.
The extremely minimal branding from both parties on this model also draws the intended audience into the IYKYK (if you know, you know) mindset, something which really sets apart those who simply have a love for the partnership, and those who truly seek the most obscure and low-key items. A mindset which is adopted regularly in present times by both sneaker heads and archive clothing collectors alike.
Adidas x Yohji Yamamoto Snow Patrol Boot
Reminiscent of something from sci-fi cult classics such as Alien or Blade Runner, the Snow Patrol Boot sleekly combines forward thinking design and style motifs alongside surprisingly wearable and accessible footwear technologies. One of the most identifiable elements to this sneaker-boot hybrid is the variety of materials used throughout - leather, rubber, neoprene are used throughout the entire construction of the shoe. There are also imprints of what look to be secure straps, along with a side zip for easy access, this shows how the practicality of this shoe was made an upmost priority throughout their design. The detailing on the toe box; embroidery motifs and the zig-zag stitch laddering the tongue of the boot nod to Yohji’s minimally detailed aesthetic.
The soles, again, just like the previously mentioned model, are made to suit the style of boot which they support, however this time they’re even more severe in their approach. Featuring carved style midsoles; blending into an aggressive tread which is similar to a teeth like pattern composed of ridges, creating a noticeable feature out of the sole alone. This model is noticeably different from Adidas’ mainline footwear releases and that’s what is so beautiful about the style which was created as a result of their organic progressive partnership with Yohji Yamamoto.
Adidas x Yohji Yamamoto Y-3 Shibutsu Boot
This model is truly something special. They are a spectacle reminiscent of a concept piece - the shape is so unlike anything we’ve analysed so far defining their own lane entirely. The Shibutsu was clearly designed under a heavy Yamamoto influence, as the style is so unique and yet still fits an Adidas aesthetic with the key sporting style intertwined. Playing with weight balance and obscure heel shapes is not uncommon in high end couture settings, but to elevate a silhouette with branding and playful sportswear elements is genius. This model really sets apart mainline and Y-3 designed pieces.
The subtle branding on the lower toe box area paired with the contrast of the outlandish folded top section with the ‘Y-3’ embossed logo and the 3 stripes inner sock just peaking above, is incredible. This boot is so interesting, and is undoubtably able to turn heads. Even in the current climate of weird and wonderful design, it is bound to stand out. Once again the Y-3 partnership proves that it is worlds apart from other collaborative efforts attempting to blend styles as contrasting as that of high end fashion and sportswear.
Adidas x Yohji Yamamoto YY Strap Bball High
This particular model is one which certainly had a strong influence on some of the most prolific silhouettes we associate with Y-3 to this day, models such as the Crazy 8 or even the Yeezy 500 ‘Desert Rat’ have a visual influence with their outlandish shape design and modular sole. Clearly this model took aspects of basketball shoe detailing which adidas has continued to integrate into its models over the years. Thin fastening straps, streamline lacing systems and elevated soles. The Strap Bball High, once again in true Yamamoto style, is enhanced.
Sporting the designers insignia across the ankle strap itself, the elongated body of the shoe stands out from the more cropped variations regularly available. The sleek all black and fluid design lines, predominantly present across the sole, continue to give off impressions of a modernised nature. Something which is ever present within the Y-3 collaborative efforts is the slight tweaking of classic aspects that often go otherwise unnoticed. For example, the stripped back panels which draw more attention to the material choice, or the fastening systems which are often combined with more elaborate detailing down to the aglet style, or even the hardware choices. These are all things which Yamamoto has focused on strongly, much like in his seasonal runway work, and even with the origins of his label Y’s which focused heavily on bringing luxury styles and adaptations of traditional items to a progressive demographic.
Yohji Yamamoto x Adidas Racer Boots
With this particular early collaborative effort, there is a strong sense of freedom on Yamamoto’s part. The chance to explore the limitations of a silhouette’s adaptation is something many footwear designers and outside collaborators are often wishing for. It’s not common that overtly complex concept designs are brought to life, however, this is a prime exception. The boot itself looks to be inspired by various styles ranging from boxing to fencing footwear, whilst also sharing similarities to motorcycle boots - possibly a precursor to the various YamaMOTO pieces from the AW04 collaboration with the brand Dainese, known primarily for manufacturing protective equipment.
The boots themselves boast a full zip from the toe box all the way up the leg into the Yamamoto signature embossed panelling on the calf section. The leather 3 stripes feature as an almost strap imitating element over the base of the shoe, and are encased by a rubberised sole and mesh panelling throughout. The sheer scale of these boots are what makes them so significant, and is clearly an example of the lengths that Yamamoto wanted to go with the designs in order to make sure they continuously evoked grandeur and still appealed to his high end demographic.
Yohji Yamamoto x Adidas 3 Stripe Trekking boots
The final silhouette to look at on this list, and personally our favourite model, is this luxurious take on a hiking-combat boot hybrid of sorts. The leather upper is paired with hits of opulent technical fabrics alongside details including; metal aglets, lace hooks and sole sections. This particular pair is a serious addition to the collaborative venture and truly shows the development possibilities available to Yamamoto while working alongside Adidas. The detailing is endless, and they truly bridge the gap between what we now know as sportswear and high end.
The shoes themselves are substantial and contain many aspects which you’d associate with luxury design, such as; the toe protectors, again hinting at the shell toe of the Adidas Superstar, and the 3 part sole composed of various heavy duty materials. Still perfectly combining the styles of Adidas, and Yamamoto’s design prevalence. The yellow signature on the lower part of the shoe, paired with the 3 stripes subtly running down the tongue, the minimal Adidas branding towards the heel of the sole and overall upper of the shoe perfectly fuse the branding between Adidas and Yamamoto.
Overall, it's clear to see that there is no real limitation to the degree of design which can be achieved between the collaborative duo. In fact, this has only been confirmed in recent years by the success of their joint venture in Y-3. You only have to look at the significance of the Y-3 ‘Qasa’ to see how important the pairing has been in pioneering certain aesthetics, and perfectly executing a merge of technical, sporting and luxurious styles.
The range of footwear alone is incredible and enough for the average footwear enjoyer to marvel at. However, when the Y-3 clothing outputs are also combined, the brand itself is an unstoppable force. We can only imagine the brand will continue to thrive and inspire others to combine efforts in order to attempt to obtain the same level of notoriety.