Starting Five: Product Highlights [February 22]
424, Balenciaga, Jil Sander & Rick Owens
Starting Five is a series where we spotlight recent product highlights that have caught our attention. Here at CONCEPTKICKS® we only showcase the product that moves us, that sparks excitement or conversation within the studio. Often, this product deserves a little more attention than the fleeting-likes of social media…
If you’re fortunate enough to be reading this from somewhere sunny, you’ll be pleased to know in the UK it’s been a week of wet and windy weather as the clouds of winter are still hanging around. Although we’d rather the early signs of spring came to full fruition, our latest selection of products sits fully in tune with the present mood. From sculptural treads and durable lug soles to hand-folded leather and fabric-focussed finishing, our current crop is dark in shade, technically apt and pursues the elite. In case they managed to pass you by, here are five product highlights that we can’t stop thinking about…
Balenciaga Defender Trainers
Having made their debut on the catwalk for Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer ‘22 collection, the Defender (designed by @gianbeini) is a brash and bold sneaker from the kings of the category. Ever since the introduction of the infamously chunky Triple S helped define a new era of oversized sneakers, the Paris-based house have continued their one-upmanship over previous efforts. This most recent addition features a mesh and nylon upper, but that isn’t the standout detail of the pair. With its outsole tread as the focal point however, the Defender bears a tyre-like form that wraps up around the shoe like something out of the Monster Jam World Finals. Featuring a substantial 15mm arch, the Defender’s bulbous disposition arrives in suitable colourways of dusty asphalt and worn-away sandstone, with the latter being worn by Justin Bieber in official campaign imagery. In signature Balenciaga fashion, the brand logo and european size number are embossed on the toe, as well as at the back beneath a twill tape pull tab.
Available here
Jil Sander Mid-Cut Shoes
Heading in a softer and more understated direction, the Mid-Cut shoes from Jil Sander are nothing short of stunning in their composition. Long known as the label of minimalism, the European brand provides us with a delightfully delicate offering made from buttery calf leather and rubber. The attention to detail across the product is staggering, as a hand-sewn Opanka construction sits atop a hand-milled tonal midsole. Opanka is a technique that is usually reserved for slippers and sandals, where a double needle stitching technique is used to join the upper and sole. Often this leads to visible stitching along the side of the shoe, while in the case of the Mid-Cut there is a thin and flat platform that runs around the entirety of the rounded toe box. After being carefully carved out, the one-piece leather forms a kind of net which is hand-folded into position before finishing with a neat lacing system and dual velcro strap closure which give the shoe its advanced but minimal form. Built in the heart of Italy to the most premium standards, the Jil Sander logo is tastefully branded onto the insole of a shoe that works across a realm of men’s and women’s stylistic choices.
Available here
Rick Owens Beatle Turbo Cyclops Boots
Hailed as the dark prince of fashion, Rick Owens’ brand synergy is perhaps second to none. Comically dubbed ‘Beatle Turbo Cyclops’, these grandiose ankle boots boast a smooth-grained calf leather finish with smacks of high-grade fabrication. Coming in at a hefty price point, the Italian construction features elasticated side inserts in its geometric panelling to combine the form of seams with impressive ease of use. The gusset on ankle boots is often left unchanged, so the manipulation of the shape is a breath of fresh air and ties in with the shape of the sole. The smooth roundness of the toe contrasts deeply with the straight-edged nature of the platform sole to epitomise the brand’s combination of softness and provocation. These two structural qualities go head-to-head on each foot as the mid-length shaft is finished with a matching leather heel pull tab. Like all of Rick Owens clothes and footwear, the best styling advice we can give is to wear it with more Rick.
Available here
Balenciaga Ultra Flat Slip On
For Balenciaga’s second entry, they provide a silhouette that could not be more different from their Defender if it tried. On the flip side of their footwear roster, the Ultra Flat Slip-On is barely a shoe at all, but rather more like a rigid ankle sock. Constructed from a moulded thermoplastic polyurethane, the Ultra Flat is covered with a thin weave of carbon fibre to act as a finishing layer, adding both textural and chemical qualities to an otherwise minimalist object. With a printed logo at the footbed, the sculptural form of the loafers give the impression of a closely associated second skin, that - owing to its closed shape - must be slipped on gently to mirror the form of the human foot. This bionic aspect fulfils an overall futuristic shoe that is prosthetic in nature. While Vibram’s notorious FiveFingers bear some resemblance, we must remember that the flexible and grip-laden fabric gave them a level of agility that one could argue has use in certain environments. The Ultra Flat however, has a relatively strict structure that is a lot less forgiving across uneven terrain.
Available here
424 Leather Marathon 2 Boots
Wrapping up our list is the Leather Marathon 2, the latest boot silhouette from the California-based tastemakers over at 424. Although technical fledglings compared to the other names on our list, the multi-brand retailer have developed their in-house designs with each passing year. Following on from an elastane-wrapped version that we showed some love to last summer, this new edition features the same gathered upper that stands as a strong focal point. The matte rubber coverings are replaced by square-cut leather laces that give the illusion of tension across the shoes, as if the laces themselves are the perpetrators in the calf upper's distorted and wave-like formation. A back zip closure remains to supply functionality for use, while the thick treaded rubber sole means that these are a pair that will last you a lifetime. The culmination of conscious design choices from 424 bears testament to the influence that exists outside of high-end fashion houses, as streetwear and luxury continue to intertwine.
Available here
