SS23 Show Favourites

Words by Robert Hallett

The month of June has always been a busy one in the fashion calendar, but as the first year back in full after the pandemic there has been a certain buzz surrounding the European capitals in recent weeks. Where London’s stripped back schedule showcased young designers such as AGR, Ahluwalia and Robyn Lynch, Milan set the stage for the likes of Prada, JW Anderson and a Gucci collaboration with Harry Styles.

The final location of Paris is typically the biggest, with a long-running tradition of marking a coming-of-age moment for growing brands and creating a hub of activity like no other. As press, photographers, designers and influencers descended upon the City of Love, we saw the newest offerings from Rick Owens, CDG Homme Plus and Louis Vuitton among others. Having had a chance to look back and reflect on what we saw, we’ve rounded up our highlights in case you missed them.

Craig Green

Always a sure bet, Craig Green’s menswear has a strong track record of being paired with some of the most considered footwear out there. The brand’s SS23 runway show was no exception, with a variety of models including new collaborations with adidas alongside in-house offerings. The partnership this season yields a flat-pack slide and sneaker which can collapse when not worn, raising the idea of portability which is not often considered in footwear. Tying in with the allure of spiritual travellers that the clothes provide, the idea of fold-away shoes is a reflection of Green’s desire to be burdenless in an age of maximalism, returning to the core of human activity in times gone by. These were complemented by zip-up and treaded sneaker models, rounding out a show typical of Craig Green’s soft and thoughtful take on masculinity.

Yohji Yamamoto

In the same year as Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas are celebrating the twentieth anniversary of their Y-3 line, the Japanese designer also enlisted the Three Stripes for his mainline label. Featuring two models, Yamamoto puts an innovative and sculptural spin on the Superstar to unveil both high and low versions with suspension soles. The upper remains predominantly untouched aside from Yohji’s signature printed at the lateral heel, but the sole unit is anchored at front and back, leaving a large gap along the majority of the shoe that the foot floats above when worn. The model utilises negative space as a form of pseudo-cushioning, a subversive act in an industry locked in a constant arms race for the newest technology.

Reese Cooper

LA-based designer Reese Cooper goes from strength to strength. The brand’s continued maturing was reflected in a teaming up with outdoor specialists Merrell on a small selection of silhouettes. Boots, sneakers and a new take on Merrell’s signature Hydro Moc are among the debutants as Cooper continues to draw inspiration from outdoor activities for the brand’s aesthetic. Merrell’s 1TRL division is a particularly hiking-focussed subsection of the brand, and the collaborative efforts for the runway exhibit this in terms of their attention to functionality. Vibram soles, technical lacing systems and dusted boots all make an appearance as part of the show labelled ‘Seed & Soil', a title which explains the green and earthy colourways that can be found across each model.

Loewe

Jonathan Anderson’s reign at the helm of the Spanish fashion house continues with an SS23 runway show full of tasteful juxtaposition. Grass-covered shoes to one side, the show also featured footwear of equally high-standards. Revisiting last season's models of distressed denim sneakers and pull-tie boots, the brand also introduced an expanded leather sneaker to complement the outerwear. Concentric bulbous shapes run along the upper of the silhouette, with panelling at the toe box, heel and collar. Chunky laces are featured to match, as the shape presents itself in one-colour options of orange, beige, olive, white and a stand-out powder blue. The pull-tie boot continues to impress, as a centre seam joins two oversized sheets of leather that wrap around the entire foot and ankle, varying in form with each wear.

Martine Rose

Continuing the Nike Shox revival of late, Martine Rose debuted a hybrid model where the early 2000s technology is morphed into a heeled mule, the inspiration for this concept. After 2019’s bulbous take on the Monarch, it’s clear that the London-born designer knows how to put a unique twist on iconic Nike silhouettes. The Shox MR4 utilises the vertical cylinders at the heel to bring about a more feminine shape, with a pointed toe box reinforcing this aesthetic. Riffing off the contrast between formalwear and sportswear during pre-game motions. The release coincides with the Women’s Euros and draws attention to women in football - from grassroots to professionals - with campaign imagery that features everyone from players and managers to asylum seekers and social justice campaigners.

Natasha Zinko

Ukrainian designer Zinko made a name for herself in jewellery, and for SS23 seamlessly translates her prowess and skill in sculpture into the realm of footwear. The brand’s Parisian showing contained strong looks of leather and denim, but also included one of the most fanatical low-top sneakers of the season. Somewhat resembling a sea urchin, the shoes were a collaborative effort with French industrial designer Kacimi Latamene. With a clog-inspired shape, the model’s organic and biological appearance includes deliberately placed spikes at toe box and heel, and curved corrugations that create a prominent depth of texture. The show in full was a reflection of war and the importance of self-expression at the worst of times. The footwear model is a great testament to that ethos, with a fun, excessive mould and a child-like quality.

Namesake

One of the lesser-known names on the list, Namesake is a Taiwanese brand founded by three brothers and their father after success in running concept retail store Ne.Sense in Taipei. The show included the introduction of a 3D sneaker, the process of which we recently brought attention to. Utilising a printed weblike structure, the sneaker pushes beyond the commonplace with an additional exoskeleton. Three loops on either side of the shoe protrude outwards before wrapping underneath the foot to meet the outsole’s tread. The sole is the full focus here, as a neoprene upper is closed minimally with a simple zip, making sure not to detract from the biological form of the 3D printed technology. The brand’s focus on basketball undoubtedly had influence on the model, and if their first shoe is this good, we can’t wait to see what comes next.

Zegna

It’s a rare feat when a luxury Italian fashion house invites an external designer to reconsider their most iconic sneaker. Zegna’s flagship shoe, the Triple Stitch, is a stripped-back silhouette that was designed to be worn with anything, in any place, at any time. Built from elevated materials, the shoe’s closure is made up of three elasticated Xs that mimic hand stitches. MRBAILEY® subverts this idea, transforming the three stitches into rubber overlays, removing the twin leather lace guards and adding a cord lock system. A wrapped leather sole makes for a chunkier silhouette, while the differing textures of mesh and the cracked upper create a beautiful contrast with the smoothness of the sole unit. A reinterpretation of an icon, the model contains the purity of craft that Zegna has at its core, but brings the brand in front of a new generational audience.

Extra

There are several extra appearances that we feel are in need of shining a light on. Japanese cult label Doublet piqued our interest with their showcasing of the foot pump: a stripped-back, low-top model that literally resembles a foot. Perhaps part of a larger trend towards the imitation of barefoot anatomy, the shoe exhibits simplicity in its nature and appeared alongside various rebellious looks for the brand's runway show.

Readdressing their previous link-up with Melissa, Y-Project pushed the nostalgia button once more with a heeled boot version of the water-ready children’s shoe. The calf-length iteration explores just how far the material could be pushed, with an interesting reference point that we’re sure we haven’t seen the back of. Elsewhere, Changing course from a plethora of Nike treatments, Sacai joined forces with Clarks on an edition of the Wallabee for a rare show of trust where the tooling has been altered. Where usually there is a single-layer crepe sole, there now lies three distinct sections that raise the profile of the shoes and include a tread.

Kiko Kostadinov showed us a new chunky boot and shoe in what appears to be a nod back in time to their efforts with CamperLab. A playful take on a shape typical of school shoes, it is a refreshing moment to see ideas realised in-house after being sparked during a major brand partnership. Rounding off the list, Namcheko also caught the eye with a completely in-house developed low-top silhouette with foam based sole. Raw-edged leather panelling sits atop a mesh upper, as the coarse texture of the sole appears like a hybrid between crepe and EVA.