Trust The Process: Snow Peak & New Balance
The Story So Far
Words by Rob Hallett
With a combined age of over 170 years, New Balance and Snow Peak have curated three collaborative efforts in the last few years including three original footwear silhouettes and numerous pieces of accompanying apparel. Examining each brand’s history and culture before diving into the shoes, we take a look at one of the most refined and inventive brand partnerships of our time.
For those who may be unfamiliar, Snow Peak is a Japanese outdoor lifestyle brand founded in 1958 by Yukia Yamai, a highly-competent mountaineer and climber who sought to create superior products with the aid of local metal workers. Twenty-five year’s later Yukia’s son Tohru had assumed control of the business, adding more than 100 camping products to the brands repertoire that sit effortlessly alongside high-grade climbing equipment. The brand has slowly expanded and deepened its product range in the pursuit of a holistic lifestyle approach; everything is both suitable for the technical needs of rural exploration and incorporates traditional detailing for everyday use. Covering everything from Dutch ovens and Titanium tableware to packable firepits and six-man tents, Snow Peak can cater to all your camping needs.
In 2014, Yukia’s granddaughter Lisa Yamai – who became CEO last year – took it upon herself to design and produce a range of apparel that channelled the extreme environmental performance at the heart of the brand. As one might expect, the clothing followed the same ethos as the rest of the brand’s products to be fit for the modern technicalities of outdoor activity yet remaining steadfast in their respect of Japanese home-life. As utilitarian trends have slowly captivated western fashion, Snow Peak has become even more notable for their range of functional and understated clothing. Focusing on temperature control, water resistance and fabric treatment techniques, there is no shortage of covetable Japanese design cues across the board with every passing season. The brand opened their first Europe-based store in London in October 2019 and made multiple appearances earlier that year in Bong Joon-ho’s Oscar winning ‘Parasite’ as one of many signs of superior living.
New Balance Tokyo Design Studio is a compartment of the American brand’s wider structure that seeks to filtrate Japanese sensibilities in a forward-thinking design process. TDS is a marrying of traditional institutions and practices with the modern material powerhouse of the brand and the studio’s physical location matches the spirit of this output. Their new home ‘T-House’ – a play on the cultural icon of the Japanese tea house – is a simple modern building with the internal skeleton of a ‘Kura’ (traditional warehouse) that was dismantled in its original location before being transported to the new site, adjusted and rebuilt into the internal structure of the building. Led by Jo Nagasaka at Schemata Architects, the space embodies the duality of the design studio’s identity that makes it the perfect accompaniment to the Snow Peak brand.
While the TDS team is flexibly global, being based in Tokyo allows the team to become closely involved with their counterparts at Snow Peak. James Lee – who was a footwear designer for all 3 of the undermentioned projects - explains that the close-quarters nature of this link-up allowed the design studio to fuse “Snow Peak’s DNA and brand values” into the ideation and development of the resulting footwear. As well as their efforts with Japan’s best outdoor brand, Tokyo Design Studio count premium minimalist brand Auralee as frequent collaborators and recently revamped the 574 by removing the signature ‘N’ from the side panels and adding a substantial ripple sole.
Capsule Collection: R_C4 MID, INDIGO C/N DOWN (June 2019)
The brands began cutting their teeth with a capsule collection that debuted the R_C4, a mid-top sneakerboot bursting with tech and ready to brave the elements. A Cordura rip-stop upper is paired with a lightweight Gore-Tex membrane, allowing the shoes to be both waterproof and breathable. Adjustable Fidlock magnetic buckles and reflective rope laces make for secure and simple release with added movement provided by the neoprene of the tongue and ankle support. Signature New Balance compounds made up the midsole; ABZORB cushioning foam partially surrounded by the sturdier makeup of ENCAP REVEAL and an outsole from traction specialists Vibram. The iconic ‘N’ branding is provided in the form of reflective taped webbing, completing the form of an incredibly functional shoe.
Apparel on offer included an Indigo C/N Down jacket and pants, a boilersuit and an adaptable vest that can transform into a bag. The Indigo C/N products that Snow Peak have on offer consist of an expertly blended combination of Nylon and Indigo-dyed cotton, resulting in a technical and durable outerwear fabric that retains the feel and appearance of traditional denim. Highlighting meticulous craftmanship that is suited for the mountains, the capsule successfully incorporated both brand’s strengths and was a huge influence on the collaborations that followed. The R_C4 was updated in a tonal triple-black colourway in February ’21 and remains a leading choice in its footwear category.
Niobium Capsule (Aug 2020)
If the R_C4 was the warm-up for these two heavyweight brands, what followed it can only be described as the main event. Originally conceived while the design teams worked on the R-C4, the Niobium capsule that succeeded their initial partnership provided us with one of the most adaptable shoes on the market, the Niobium Concept 1. Comprising of a detachable sole and interchangeable boot and sandal uppers, the shoe offers a wide range of functionality to combat the environment. The trail running sole is taken from the New Balance MT801, a best-selling product for the brand that provides durability and traction across rough terrain. The bootie comes fully equipped with waterproof eVent technology and effortlessly zips around the Achilles to connect with the mule. The last component is a simple pair of house shoes with a soft underneath for comfortable wear at home.
The inspiration for the product comes from the multifaceted nature of outdoor camping. The user may find themselves near wetlands or in rain at times, but on returning to camp would find a sandal more suitable. Going one step further, the sock-like lining can be completely removed when entering inside a tent or indoor accommodation. According to Lee, the brief was to “design a shoe that could be worn for all 4 seasons” and in that respect we must agree that the team succeeded on all accounts. The focus was to ideate a three-shoes-in-one approach that could jump quickly and easily between states as the user required. Named after the 41st periodic element with the symbol Nb, the Niobium Concept 1 debuted in a subdued colourway that reflects the moss and rocks of mountain streams. This was accompanied by eVent salopettes, gaiters which attach to the shoes by way of toe hooks and a multi-pocket fishing vest in complementary fabrication. Since their initial release, the Concept 1 has appeared in Grey, Black and Yellow/Blue colourways that we expect – and hope – aren’t the last of this conceptualization.
Niobium Concept 2 (2021)
For their third and most recent partnership, the Niobium Concept 2 is a two-way sandal that utilises the asymmetric sole unit from the Fresh Foam Hierro, a popular New Balance trail shoe. While each collaborative effort draws inspiration from slightly different places, they hold many likenesses and naturally phase into one another as part of the ongoing design development between the two brands. With the twin pillars of utility and transformation, the Concept 2 epitomises Snow Peak’s Home-Camp approach and echoes the feeling on walking from the paved roads of urban landscapes to the organic terrain of open fields. The asphalt and olive tones present in the initial release of the shoe are testament to this, and the ‘Water’ - a combination of navy and turquoise - and ‘Dirt Trail’ – sand and chocolate brown with accents of orange - colourways that followed continue this theme.
A detachable heel strap gives this outdoor sandal a subtle metamorphic echo of the earlier Concept 1, albeit in a less striking alteration. The Fresh Foam X is compiled in a honeycomb structure and sits atop a hardy Vibram Megagrip outsole for pathway endurance and comfort over long periods of time. Fidlock magnetic buckles make their reappearance in an homage to the R_C4, while a breathable mesh upper is supported by durable synthetic leather on the straps and toes. Reflectors at the front and rear extend the lighting environments that the sandals are suitable for, in a detail-oriented approach intended to satisfy the complete needs of camp life.
After a Japan release on June 25th, the Niobium Concept 2 is available now from Snow Peak USA, with wider global release coming imminently.