noonefeat

No.One Breaks Down The Making Process Of Their Bravo Kudu Edition

If you’ve been following ConceptKicks for a while, you’ll be very familiar with our appreciation for the LA based brand/atelier, No.One. Handcrafting their impeccably well executed footwear in their own shoe making facility in the heart of California, each shoe represents hours of skilled labour.

This time we get a closer look into some of the shoe making processes behind their latest signature Bravo silhouette, this time using Kudu hide – “No.One embraces the patina and imperfections on the hearty Kudu hides sourced from renowned British suede specialists Charles H. Stead. This 6oz nubuck is hand lasted around the Bravo last to give a first look at a tonal Bravo upper.” – No.One

The Bravo Kudu Edition offered in two colors, a military green edition of 12 and grey edition, also of 12.
You can see the development break-down in full, below.

 

cklab-ad2

Cutting

SLIDE 1: Using magnets to hold the upper pattern in place, we cut the upper from the Kudu hide. We embrace the natural patina and scars on the hide and purposely include them into the pattern.

SLIDE 2: Sharp knives equal clean cuts, edges are sharpened after ever cut.

SLIDE 3: Closer look at some of the markings on the hide earned in their life in the wild. These hides from Charles H Stead are procured from Namibia and South Africa.

 

Slide 1


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.29.15
Slide 2


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.29.31
Slide 3


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.29.58

Components

SLIDE 1: Heel piece of the Bravo Kudu edition have been cut and embossed.

 

Slide 1


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.28.59

Lining

SLIDE 1: Plonge Lambskin lining has been assembled and is setting in the sun waiting to be stitched.

SLIDE 2: While we embrace the patina and markings on the Kudu we look for perfection in the Plonge Lambskin lining. Only blemish free skins are selected for this process and our partner specializes in making this luxury lambskin article.

SLIDE 3: Assembling the Plonge lining on the bench top, they will be hammered together with small dabs of glue to hold them in place for stitching.

 

Slide 1


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.28.19
Slide 2


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.28.31
Slide 3


noone

Sun Curing

SLIDE 1: Leather lasting insoles are molding to the last in the California sun. We let them sit for a day to mold to the shape of the last.

SLIDE 2: Then we trim the edge to get a perfect beveled edge that allows the upper to fold cleanly around when lasting.

 

Slide 1


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.27.49
Slide 2


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.28.02

Toe Puff

SLIDE 1: We want the toe of the Bravo to be nice and slim, no puffy toes please. So we use this band style toe puff rather then the traditional cap style. Its cemented in place during the lasting process after the lining has been lasted and before the upper is lasted around the toe.

SLIDE 2: Completed toe puff with the lining and upper heel area lasted. Its ready to be completed by lasting the upper toe area.

 

Slide 1


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.27.07
Slide 2


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.27.25

Lasting

SLIDE 1: Birdseye view of the lasting process, the shoe sits on a lasting stand and the shoemaker uses lasting pliers to pull the leather tight and then hammer in nails to secure it in place.

SLIDE 2: The lasting pliers pulling the upper leather around the front quarters. The flat surface of the pliers will be used to hammer the nail in place.

 

Slide 1


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.26.49
Slide 2


Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 12.17.20

All that process doesn’t mean a thing if the shoe isn’t dope.

One look and you can tell that these are going to age like a fine wine, getting better with age. Thats what happens when you embrace the imperfections.

 
Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.24.57

Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.52.25

Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.54.21

Screen Shot 2018-03-22 at 11.52.08

 

Made for the limited few but available to all now at No-One.LA

 

END. Clothing

Mr. Bailey

Designer + Footwear Architect | Founder of @ConceptKicks | Instagram @MrBailey_ | www.MrBailey.co.uk

  • Mr shoe

    It’s Charles F. Stead isn’t it? not H. stead