Former Reebok Designer, Freeman Plat Owner & current Design Director at Ralph Lauren, Jeremy Sallee is next in line for our “Last Comes First” series. Detailing everything from what gives a “Dad shoe” it’s notable silhouette to what his goal as Freeman Plat is when it comes to pushing the last silhouette.
See Jeremy’s responses in full, below.
I know it’s cliche, but “the last does literally come first”. The last can make or break a shoe.
What makes the Air Monarch a “Dad shoe” ? The voluminous last. What makes the Common Projects Achilles Low the shoe of choice for the fashion consumer? The sleek last. It’s all in the shape. However, with shape comes fit and comfort. Hence, while the slim low profile silhouette may look better to most, the wearer’s feet may beg to differ.
There’s a thin line between comfort and aesthetic.
Our goal at Freeman Plat has been to ride that line. We’ve referenced shapes from New Balance runners and shaved them down to the liking of the fashion consumer. We’ve gotten the toe as shallow as possible BEFORE it begins to rub. Since a lot of our shoes are laceless, the rear of our lasts needs to cup the heel to reduce heel slip. These are just a few elements that we implemented when developing the lasts for our Jogger series.
With all of that said, trends are real (love it or hate it) and we’ve definitely noticed some change in last shape. Currently, we’re seeing a lot of brands (Yeezy, Balenciaga) referencing the “Dad shoe”: big toes, overbuilt foam packages, etc,etc.. This too shall pass.
Product Designer + Footwear Architect | Founder of @ConceptKicks | Instagram @MrBailey_ | www.MrBailey.co.uk
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