Dior Shares Making Process Of Their “Air Dior”
Iconic Parisian brand Dior recently shared a look at the making of their collaborative sneaker with Jordan Brand. Dubbed the “Air Dior”, the sneaker honestly has more in common with high-end bag manufacturing than shoe making.
In the video below, Dior Men’s director Kim Jones, Dior Men’s lead footwear designer Thibo Denis (who recently gave us his insights on what he’s been up to during lock-down) and Jordan Brand VP of Design Martin Lotti, walk us through some of the process and detailing that went into the making of the shoe.
Sneakers by Women
A new Instagram account dedicated to sharing women in the footwear industry, @SneakersByWomen was recently created.
“Hello I’m Julia. I created this account because I was fed up with the lack of attention women retrieve in the Footwear industry.
My goal is to give those hard working, talented females the recognition they deserve. Stay tuned for news and information regarding the female designers of today and the future!” – @SneakersByWomen
To see more make sure to give the account a follow – @SneakersByWomen
A Look Back At The Zaha Hadid Architects x Lacoste Collaboration
Back in 2009, Zaha Hadid Architects and Lacoste revealed their collaborative collection of footwear.
“Design expression hinged on the evolution of dynamic fluid grids – which when wrapped around the human foot, expanded and contracted to negotiate and adapt to the body ergonomically. In doing so, they created a digital landscape, undulating and radiating as it moves seamlessly with the body.
“This digital landscape was translated into a tactile landscape using metal plates to ‘fix’ specific wave patterns and apply them to calf leather using embossing and debossing techniques.
“These wave patterns emerge gradually on the uppers of each shoe as they curve around the top and exterior fasciae, before fading across the straps. Two dimensional representations of the same patterns are replicated on the soles.
“Continuity and fluidity of design is further enhanced by use of a very shallow sole and a seamless strap closure system. The unique Zaha Hadid for Lacoste logo appears on the side of the heel and on the in-sock.” – Zaha Hadid Architects
Only 850 pairs of these shoes were created (available in black and purple for women and in black and navy blue for men).
Below you can see some of the initial renderings and sketches, as well as the final footwear silhouettes.
ZAHA HADID ARCHITECTS
Zaha Hadid with Patrick Schumacher
Danilo Arsic, Margarita Yordanova Valova, Maha Kutay, Nick Armitage, Dylan Davie
YEEZY’s Innovative Footwear Construction Direction
I don’t know if we just weren’t paying attention, or if more super unique YEEZY silhouettes just seem to keep coming up every other day, but we wanted to share our appreciation for the direction YEEZY seems to have taken with their latest silhouettes.
With more of a focus on blown EVA (/ Algae foam) and direct inject construction, (which i’m assuming they’re using to make local / US production more feasible in the near future), the focus on more of a fully “moulded” silhouette is allowing them to create super unique aesthetics due to the fact that it gives you more room to play with proportions that still allow the shoe to function comfortably.
With Kanye’s recent GAP partnership announcement mixed with a more localised YEEZY production, a future of blown EVA / direct inject, locally produced footwear and affordable clothing paints a pretty unqiue picture.
You can see more of YEEZY’s 2020 footwear collection, below.
Nike ISPA 2020 Collection
Nike’s ISPA label, established in 2018, shared their upcoming 2020 lineup yesterday, causing sneaker heads and designers alike to basically lose their sh*t.
I was lucky enough to get a glimpse at the Road Warrior during my trip to Nike campus earlier this year. ISPA Design Director Darryl Matthews was also casually wearing the Overreacts and the Flows while running between meetings, so I had a fairly good understanding of the reaction these silhouettes would create when they released.
Below you can see a break-down of each of the designs, which are scheduled to start releasing from July 9th onwards.
If you’re interested to learn more about the collection make sure to tune in this Monday for their ISPA Live Digital experience.
Improvise, Scavenge, Protect, Adapt.
Featuring double-stacked Zoom Air cushioning units, a “tank track” like sole unit and a split toe, the Road Warrior is arguably the most aesthetically grabbing silhouette of the collection (which is saying a lot).
Available July 10
Featuring a React foam sole unit, knit upper and assymetric collar, the Overreact uses data taken from geometries of past React silhouettes (like the React Element 87). The sockliner and strobel were removed, enabling the wearer to sit directly above React foam.
Available July 9
Utilizing the Overeact’s DNA, the Overeact Sandal mixes visible and hidden layers across the upper to allow for breathabilty, and sits on the super comfy and volumous React midsole.
Available July 31
The Flow also features a React foam midsole, but executes it in a very different manner. The sleeker React sole interpretation couples with a breathable and cleverly structured upper, allowing your feet to be both comfortable and cool during the summer months.
Available August 13
Featuring a split toe, the Drifter combines a Japanese work boot style with a super lightweight casual sneaker. Sat atop a partially reground ZoomX foam the style also features a unique lacing system that allows the user to fasten the shoe at both the top and center of the throat.
Available September 1
Form Explorations With Machin
Taking the last shape and manipulating it to create a mixture of silhouettes, the forms question traditional proportions and showcase how you can build something incredibly unique off of an organic, functional shape.
You can see more of Machin’s experiments in the slideshow below.
“ISDKV Record” AR footwear Concept By Ilyas Darakchiev
Footwear Designer, Ilyas Darakchiev recently shared his “ISDKV Record” footwear project, a design inspired by Nike’s Air Zoom Alphafly Next% worn by Eliud Kipchoge, with the added element of augmented reality.
The concept features super aggressive looking sole unit, with a front and heel section that jutt out and loop back together to create an open space at the mid-foot of the midsole. After creating the concept in 3D Ilyas managed to experiment with a tracking system to have the shoe “attach” to his feet in AR (which you can see in the video below).
“This is my 3rd personal project of digital shoes. And 1st one which I shown in augmented reality video. Actually, I have to say that it’s not real time AR, it’s pre-recorded video with added CGI. But as for me, result looks quite interesting. And future possibilities are great.” – Ilyas
Below you can see the design and digital process of Ilyas’s “ISDKV Record” AR footwear Concept.
Y-3 Concepts By David Whetstone
A throwback project to 2017 by THE NORTH FACE (Collaborations, Archives, and Special Projects) designer, David Whetstone.
Below you can see David’s concepts, all rendered in his unqiue style, with each design exploring a slightly different approach, from unique lacing placement to assymetric upper patterns.
Top 9 #ckinspiration Posts
See The Development Of Li-Ning’s Collaboration Sneaker With Soulland
‘Running creates the intersection of freedom, motion and meditation… of humanity and nature. Because of this, the Soulland team was so excited that runners’ culture would be the focus of our first project with Li-Ning. Our working together so far has allowed us to explore new design capabilities and forms, making the partnership all the more exciting and dynamic. Simply put, we can’t wait to share more of what we have planned!’ – Soulland co-founder and Creative Director, Silas Adler
The first silhouette, which has already caught a lot of attention since being revealed, is a runner style sneaker that features a double-stacked mid-sole with an open window at the mid-foot.
Below you can see some of the development of the sneaker, shared by the Instagram account, @Forty_two_and_a_half.
(Li-Ning & Soulland also added the tag line, “Pre – Inter – Post” to their posts, I’m assuming this alludes to ‘pre-run’, ‘inter-run’ and ‘post-run’, so I wouldn’t be surprised if another sneaker gets debuted shortly)
Via – Sneaker Freaker
Zixiong Wei’s 3D Explorations
If you’ve been reading/following ConceptKicks for a while you’ll be familiar with Zixiong Wei‘s (@scccccry) work. A mixture of super intricate detail and organic forms, Zixiong’s concepts showcase both his creativity and also an understanding of how to push the limits of 3D printing.
“Some daily sketches, based on full 3D printing technology platform.The full digital flow from modeling to rendering gives the designer a foot in the door at the beginning of the design.The project is also exploring the limits of freedom of digital design and trying to connect with manufacturing.” – Wei
Below you can see some of Zixiong’s super inspiring concepts.
Last Segmentation Research By Jesper Speekenbrink
Rotterdam based designer, Jesper Speekenbrink has created a method in which, by segmenting a shoes last, he’s able to easily manipulate and create a multitude of different last silhouettes, simply by stacking and building up slices of lasts, piece by piece.
“Last comes first. Every shoe starts at this very basic defining element. In the industry of footwear, lasts are not easily accessible for a designer to obtain or produce to use in a small range.
“To get around these restrictions I used a method to assemble and vary with the moulds differently. It is based on mimicking layering that occurs when translating a 3D file into a physical object.
“The segmentation of a last provides a way to create every modeled shape, offering the possibility to specialise the last, embed specific construction methods and endlessly vary the shape, size and resolution. Also the steps of modelling, laser-cutting and assembling allow the user to vary, make quick new models and mirror the slices to use as a left and right foot mould.” – Speekenbrink
You can see some of Jesper’s experiments below.
The Design Of The Adidas x Pharrell Williams ‘0 TO 60 STMT’
Design Director (adidas x Yohji Yamamoto + Y-3 footwear & accessories adidas), Aurélien Longo recently also shared a look at some of the design behind the adidad x Pharrell Williams 0 to 60 STMT.
“This was not the first project I worked on in a collaboration with Pharrell Williams, but this is certainly the most crazy.”– Aurelien Longo
Looking like a cross between a motorcycle shoe and a ski boot, the 0 to 60 STMT is based off of the Crazy BYW 2.0. The Upper features a Three Stripes across the midfoot, with an asymmetrical zipper which works with a collar strap to provide lockdown. (via – Hypebeast)
Creative Direction: Pharrell Williams
Colour and Materials : adidas Originals Statement PDX team under Brian Foresta lead
Midsole Design : Jonathan Guisbert
Development : Echo Volz Suhong
Product Manager : Stuart Davis
“This was not the first project I worked on in a collaboration with Pharrell Williams, but this is certainly the most crazy. His idea was to create a basketball shoe that would visually feel like a motocross-boot.” - Aurelien Longo
“Each time as start a new project, I first go dig into the adidas archives to see if we can somehow reference the brand. I found these ski-boots from the late 90ies. I immediately felt in love with the design and details and decided to mock-up some visuals using these, to present to Pharrell (see below sketch and mash-up renderings).
His reaction was priceless and this gave me another reason to put all my energy into the making of the shoe.” – Aurelien Longo
“This one was one of the first sketches of the project. The initial goal was to use the “BoostYourWear-1” midsole developed by both adidas Basketball and Originals, but we then decided to move on with the next generation midsole (designed by Jonathan Guisbert from the adidas Originals PDX team). – Aurelien Longo
“This one was one of the first sketches of the project. The initial goal was to use the “BoostYourWear-1″ midsole developed by both adidas Basketball and Originals, but we then decided to move on with the next generation midsole (designed by Jonathan Guisbert from the adidas Originals PDX team).” – Aurelien Longo
‘Adidas Air Jordan’ By Thomas Le
If you’ve watched ESPN’s ‘The Last Dance’ doc, you’ll be familiar with the fact that Michael Jordan actually wanted to initially sign with Adidas. However, due to them being unable to facilitate a deal, Jordan ended up inking what would become a game-changing deal with Nike to create his Air Jordan line.
But, what would have happened if Adi had have been able to make that deal with Jordan at the time? Designer Thomas Le envisioned what a future where MJ was with the three stripes may have looked like.
“In 1984 Michael Jordan signed a historic deal with Nike to design his sneaker line. Back then, he was actually fiercely loyal to Adidas, but they were unable to workout a deal. This huge “what if” inspired me to create an Adidas Air Jordan concept lifestyle sneaker.” – Thomas Le
You can see Thomas Le’s Adidas Air Jordan concept, below.