“Wacky Pack” By Jeff Shen
“Wacky Pack explores the concept and possibilities of “tying a shoe”, by investigating unusual construction and fastening method, creates a unique yet diverse interaction between the shoe and the user, through which to users with a new level of improvisation and customization.” – Shen
The collection was heavily influenced by the Japanese footwear brand Hender Scheme, their “Manual Industrial Products” collection in-particularly, where they create iconic footwear with incredibly clever, manual and traditional shoemaking techniques – “It had resulted in my fascination towards veg-tanned leather, and the combination and clashing between traditional leather shoe making and contemporary, unorthodox concepts.” – Shen
Another big facet of this collection was Shen’s fascination with metal hardware. (the image below is his personal collection) – “They are heavily industrial made object that fulfills design needs. Because of their rich property: shiny surface, smooth cold feeling, weight that it adds onto the objects, to me they are as strong as the fabric or leather that they complement, or even stronger, even with the power to dictate the piece. Their present will be emphasized in Wacky Pack, since it is an exploration of constructing and fastening.” – Shen
The “Wacky Pack” collection consists of three styles;
“The inner shoe employs an unlined structure. 4 oz leather was wet and lasted on top of pined down counter and toe stiffeners. the shoe cover uses 2 oz leather skived thin all over to drape and close more easily.
2 layers of soling leather was used, with the top one sanded into a wedge to blend smoothly to create heel.” – Shen
“Prototype was built to test and validate the zipper construction.
Two-way zippers go all around the entire shoe, from front to bottom to back
Zippers were dyed to match the leather color, sewn onto upper and cemented onto midsole.
Outsoles were split in half and attached to midsole, then trimmed and finished.” – Shen
“Pattern was laser-score onto the leather and then hand cut.
They are double layered and stitched together to increase thickness and stiffness.
Hollow snaps, EVA soles and lining upper were bought in shoe supply market in Guangzhou.
Linings were dyed to match color.
Shoe was welted and attached with EVA, which was then hand cut and sanded smooth.” – Shen
Below you can see some of the initial design and development behind each of the “Wacky Pack” silhouettes.
Peter Fogg Shares Initial Nike Air Humara Sketches
Former Nike Footwear Designer, Peter Fogg has been sharing snippets of some of his past iconic Nike designs via his Instagram account. These particular sketches and colour studies belonging to the legendary Nike Air Humara.
Originally debut in 1998, the Air Humara almost never made it to production. In an interview with TheShoeGame back in 2011, ‘Fogg explained that his developer didn’t like the shoe and wanted to stop working on it. If it hadn’t been for his marketing team believing in the design and fighting for it, Fogg’s vision may never have been realized.’ (via – Highsnobiety)
You can see some of Fogg’s initial sketches and colour studies below (make sure to swipe through to see all the pics).
“Spinning Jenny” By Robin Kuhnle & June-Noa Fabregas
Stuttgart based Designers, Robin Kuhnle and June-Noa Fabregas collaborated on a super interesting project entitled, “Spinning Jenny” (named after the multi-spindle spinning frame), which looks to produce directly in 3D by weaving ropes around a steel structure.
“We want to produce fashion directly in 3D. In other words experimentally develop a three dimensional way to produce fashion. This new technique is about wrapping ropes around 3 dimensional tools and then connect or cure them with different binding materials.
The base of the tools are steel tubes wich enable a physical molding in every orientation. After connecting the ropes the steel tubes are removed and the products take over and become self stabilizing.
Wrapped tubes replace seams and form a framework. By developing this new process we created not only a new manufacturing technology, we also designed a independent, new, aesthetic.” – Kuhnle
Below you can see some of the initial prototyping, as well as the final sample and short video detailing the process.
Artists Reimagine John Elliott’s Nike Air Force 1
Designer John Elliott recently shared his upcomming collection/collaborations at NYFW. The talk of the show being his collaboration with Lexus, where he created custom tires inspired by his AF1 collaboration with Nike.
The John Elliott x Nike Air Force 1, used a layering technique to create the illusion of colour through shadows. During the event, they showcased a few artist’s interpretations of Elliott’s AF1. From externally wrapped socks, to dipping the shoe in cement, artists Yung Jake, Hassan Rahim, Actual Source and Matt McCormick each added their twist on the shoe.
You can see a couple of the interpretations below, for all of the shoes head to the Highsnobiety Sneakers IG.
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No.One Debuts GAMMA Boot
The latest edition to the Venice, CA based shoe brand/atelier, No.One is the “GAMMA” boot.
Drawing inspiration from classic hiking boot materials, this initial edition of the “GAMMA” features an all-weather treated British Nubuck from Charles Stead, an Italian Vegetable-tanned rear heel counter and pull tab, and a custom embossed ultra-durable lightweight leather tongue.
Beautifully minimal and hand-lasted in their studio, their latest silhouette may have a familiar feel given that they’ve been built on their proprietary Alpha last. The boots are also lined with French Plongé leather, 100% leather interior components and sit atop a hand turned EVA midsole and Vibram outsole. This particular Edition also ships with interchangeable Red and Teal 3M reflective boot laces.
You can pick up a pair of No.One’s GAMMA Boots via their website.
A Look At The Initial Sketch Of Nike’s Huarache Edge
The John Stockton of the footwear industry strikes again. Former Nike, current Brand Jordan designer, Lee Gibson recently shared an initial sketch of the Nike Huarache Edge, which he assisted in the creation of.
The Edge’s feature moulded rubber sections that transistion from the midsole to the upper, perforated leather at the toe and ofcourse a black Neoprene throat/collar that’s become synonymous with the iconic Huarache style.
Below you can see an initial sketch of the Nike Huarache Edge, and some shots of the final product.
Janis Sne Shares Design Process Of “PROTOTYPE 03” Project
“Experiment – Analyze – Define – Improve – Repeat”
3D Concept Designer, Janis Sne recently shared a look into the design process of his imaculate “PROTOTYPE 03” Project.
“The PROTOTYPE 03 is a concept sneaker that is specially developed for all environments. It features organic design language with optimized two-layer construction for the best comfort. The translucent waterproof upper with Gore-Tex membrane, helps you to stay dry in wet climates. Your feet is wrapped around a comfortable 360-feet stability with the 3D-Flyprint inner sock and Flywire technology. With the highly responsive 3D-printed midsole, your weight distributes in every step you take. The wider outsole design provides optimal grip and traction for wet surfaces. To avoid any unnecessary feet movements, the sneaker has distinctive larger heel counter.” – Janis
This concept is more than just an aesthically focused project for Janis, it’s also a way of envisioning a more efficient and sustainable option for footwear in the future – “In the past 10 years, human kind has produced more plastic than the entire 20th century. I believe that a great design is a measure of our progress – therefore I feel that it is my responsibility to embrace sustainability as important direction of inspiration” Janis also adds, “How can it be more efficient and environmental friendly? The solution is simple : The starting point is the recycling of plastic. After, all the plastics are turned into textiles and assets for 3D-printers.”
Janis took to his Instagram to share some of the initial modelling process and showcases the impeccable amount of detail that has gone into the project. You can see some screen shots of the process below, for the full project head to Janis’ website, here.
Michael Lennheden Shares Development Of New Filling Pieces Sillouhette
“Designed by hands. In-house. Analog design approach using only a last, tape and some markers. We only had a red tape at our hands, and when we shipped the taped up last to the factory, it ended up being the colour that the factory used for the first prototype, and quickly we started liking the red contrast colour.” – Lennheden
Below you can see a look at the initial taped up last, CAD work as well as a sneak peek of the final product.
Y3 Heel Concept
Designer, “Morphrosis” recently shared a beautiful Y3 Heel project.
Conceptualised by Morphrosis and modelled by @matric_zero, the concept features a sculptured heel with an assymetrically wrapped strap that extends from the lateral side of the heel.
You can see one of the initial sketches, as well as the working model and final renders of the Y3 Heel concept, below.
PETERSON+STOOP Share The Development Of Their New “Double Wavy” Construction
Below you can see some of the initial steps that went into the creation of their latest construction style, as well as an explanation from PETERSON+STOOP about each step of the process.
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Nic Galway Explains Y3’s FW19 Collection To Highsnobiety
Highsnobiety recently caught up with global senior VP of design for adidas Originals and style, Nic Galway to discuss the inspiration and thought process behind Y3’s latest collection.
Galway explained to Highsnobiety, “For the Y-3 Fall/Winter 2019 collection, we focused on three eras that are crucial to both adidas and Yamamoto: the ’70s, the ’80s, and the ’90s. It’s about “Icons meet icons” – interpreting our individual codes through the lens of one another. In footwear, the range presents directional, low-profile sneakers, elevated court trainers, and modernized reissues from the initial pioneering collaborations between Yohji Yamamoto & adidas.”
Below you can get a look at Y3’s collection, as well as getting an explanation on each of the styles from Nic – for the full article head to Highsnob.
A Look At The Design Process Of Represent’s “Terrier”
“We wanted to make something as technical & functional as it is mean looking. The sock upper runs under the transparent breathable membrane & Fuji frame work. Suede ghillie lacing system runs up to the ‘R’ bars, 3m detailing & Piping throughout. The Vibram sole is foam filled making it super light & comfy.” – Mike
You can see some of the journey that lead to the final result you see above, below.
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Terrier development. By far the longest amount of time we’ve invested into a product. Swipe to see the journey. 12 months from initial sketches. We wanted to make something as technical & functional as it is mean looking. The sock upper runs under the transparent breathable membrane & Fuji frame work. Suede ghillie lacing system runs up to the ‘R’ bars, 3m detailing & Piping throughout. The Vibram sole is foam filled making it super light & comfy. 2019.
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Some people are going to hate & say it isn’t original. Think what you want, but we built this from scratch. Our hard work, craft, sweat, pain & time. It isn’t easy and if it was, we’d all be doing it. @representclo . #representclo #2019 #sample #madeinitaly . . . . . . . . . . #dmtfc #conceptkicks #ckinspiration #shoemaking #patterncutting #craft #footweardesign #productdesign
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The Terrier Sneaker. Matte black neo outer with a chunky sock inner. Breathable Korean membrane toe and side panels. Hiking laces with a rubberised ‘R’ bar each side. Black 3M details & black piping around the shoe. Sat on a lightweight foam filled Vibram sole… Mike will drop the past 12 months process on this. Made in Italy. The name refers to the shape of the dog head, anyway it’s gonna drop in summer. S/o to @thefootwearcomposer & @darioallegri for the blood sweat and tears gone into this beast.
ConceptSurgeon 01- Final Sample
It’s my pleasure to showcase the final sample of the ConceptSurgeon 01 (ConceptKicks x The Shoe Surgeon) design challenge, where we asked designers to imagine what a collaboration between Hender Scheme and Acronym might look like if based on a adidas EQT BOOST tooling.
The final ConceptSurgeon 01 winning design by, Corentin Bricout, features Corentin’s unique assymetrical design, a vegetable tan leather and black nylon upper, clean debossed logos, unique leather overlay detailing on the EQT BOOST sole, as well as completley replacing the bottom rubber outsole with veg tan leather.
Below we have a couple interviews, firstly we caught up with Corentin to get his thoughts on winning the first ConceptSurgeon and secondly withDominic to find out what some of the challenges were developing this design, why we’re doing this and what he beleives the future of ConceptSurgeon could be. See both of the interviews, below.
ConceptSurgeon 01 Winner – Corentin Bricout
What were the challenges you found when coming up with this design?
Corentin: The main challenge was to understand and decide how to come up with a design that would be unique and fresh.
My creative process was not focusing only on the main lines of the design but I also paid a lot of attention to the choice of materials, proportions and details because it all works together. And of course fun is the key to make everything work together ! Especially on this one because the brief was allowing designers to go crazy and push their ideas as much as possible.
How did you decide to interoperate two seemingly very aesthetically opposing brands in Hender Scheme and Acronym?
Corentin: It was a great exercise to combine those brands together, I first decided to identify the key elements, what makes them what they are.
After understanding Hender Scheme and Acronym’s identities, I could define a design language and started sketching while keeping in mind that my design should feature overlapping layers, contrast and obviously be functional to keep this “magic” touch that makes Acronym so surprising and interesting. I wanted the silhouette to be clean and clear, highlighting the materials and the process itself.
How long did it take you to come up with the design?
Corentin: It took me few days to think about the brief and come up with my design.
I was working on it as soon as I had some free time after work, I’d say during 4 or 5 days maybe.
How does it feel to have your shoe design made into a reality? And by The Shoe Surgeon?
Corentin: It’s an amazing feeling of course, it’s always great to see your idea become something real and have it in your hands or even wear it !
I am really proud and honored that the shoe was crafted by the Shoe Surgeon. Dominic is doing an amazing work, he is a reference in the footwear community and his creations are crazy so it makes it even more special for me.
Will you wear your shoes?
Corentin: It’s funny because some people already asked me this questions. I’ve been thinking about it and the answer is : NO !
I will try them once, as a final step to close the loop. They are unique and special, I put passion in this project and it means a lot for me to have the real shoes now so I will think about a special place to showcase them.
Trust me, I’ll take care of them 🙂
Dominic Chambrone aka The Shoe Surgeon
Why are we doing ConceptSurgeon?
Dom: Concept surgeon was created for us to help push designers to do more. To create a larger community of designers and makers. For designers to be able to push themselves and potentially see their design come to life faster.
Were you expecting to have as many entries as we did? And what did you think of the general quality of them?
Dom: I didn’t expect as many entries at all. And I thought the majority were done very well. It was overwhelming and amazing to see.
Why did you like Corentin’s?
Dom: I liked how he mashed up the brands. And the leather bottom of the sole seemed like a challenge. I like how it’s a low top snap over sneaker. I liked how he put the veg tan over the back heel.
What was the most challenging aspects of the shoe to make?
Dom: The most challenging aspect was… sourcing the right material. Trying to get it exactly like the design which was nearly impossible. Sourcing the exact snaps. Also getting the rubber off of the boost perfectly and placing the back leather over the back heel smoothly.
What are your personal favourite features of the final physical shoe?
Dom: I really like the branding details on the sole. The leather sole and the snap feature.
Did this challenge push you and your team?
Dom: This definitely challenged my team and I a lot. From me really wanting to get the design exactly as the rendering. But that’s not normally how design and development works. You don’t normally get it right the first time. But that’s my goal always. Also sourcing specific material was tough and the most challenging was the leather down the back, I had to sand the boost down and then make it in 2 pieces and sew it on.
Advice to people entering the next competition?
Dom: Think technical as well as an overall amazing concept. Come with it. This is fun but make something you’re passionate about
What is the future of ConceptSurgeon?
Dom: The future is amazing. I’m excited to continue this and push the industry further. I love the ability to give a platform to push creatives to think outside he box.
Congrats to Corentin and a huge shoutout to The Shoe Surgeon and his team for crafting this first ConceptSurgeon creation.