Mr. Bailey
Designer + Footwear Architect | Founder of @ConceptKicks | Instagram @MrBailey_ | www.MrBailey.co.uk

All posts by Mr. Bailey

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The Making of The 1 Reimagined

 

“Their brief: “Make some cool shit.” Their time frame from brief to final design: Two weeks.” – Nike

 

Nike flew a team of 14 of it’s designers, colourists and materialists to London to reimagine two of Nike’s most iconic styles, the Air Force 1 & the Jordan 1.

At root, The 1 Reimagined is a project predicated on shaking things up. With that in mind, Footwear Director Andy Caine picked the 14 participants with a clear objective consideration. “The genesis of creativity is diversity,” he says. “From a design point of view, each of the designers has a very unique background and personality. Our theory is that when you mix diverse creative talents you realize some magic.’ – Nike

The group consisted of, Footwear Innovation Designer’s Shamees Aden & Reba Brammer, Materials Design Director Marie Crow & Magnhild Disington, Footwear Designer’s Melusine Dieudonne, Marie Odinot & Kara Nykreim, Senior Footwear Designer’s Jin Hong, Louisa Page & Angela Martin, Senior Footwear Creative Director Georgina James, Footwear Product Design Lead Jesi Small & Senior Color Design Director Chiyo Takahashi.

You can see their final reimagined Air Force 1 and Jordan 1 styles below, and to get the full story behind the project, head here.
 
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AJ1 SAGE XX: Clean, sophisticated turned and stitched seams give this shoe a refined finish.

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AJ1 LOVER XX: A luxurious velvet lining, molded interior and angled collar hugs the foot with feminine edge.

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AJ1 REBEL XX: A medial zipper offers point of entry to this shoe, which twists the upper sideways.

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AF1 REBEL XX: All the components are flipped to the back, where a corset lacing system at the heel highlights the inverted aesthetic.

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AF1 LOVER XX: Built on a new almond last and given a bold platform stack height, this translates the iconic basketball sneaker to a velvet-lined mule with iridescent backed perforations.

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AF1 JESTER XX: A few misplaced Swoosh logos and a double-stacked rand grants this a fresh, tongue-in-cheek vibe.

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AF1 SAGE XX: The slip-on style raises the stack height 12mm above the original and streamlines the shoe’s lines for a minimalist take on the classic.

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Helen Kirkum Teams up with Per Götesson

The super talented former adidas designer and now London based indy footwear artist, Helen Kirkum recently collaborated with menswear designer Per Götesson to create a unique collection of Lycra based footwear/covers.
The first design appears to be overall Lycra boots with a zipped closure, with the others being both high and low-top Lycra shoe covers. The low having a wild lacing detail across the vamp, and the high having a super clean overall aesthetic.

You can see more of Helen’s inspiring creations, below.
 

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A Behind the Scenes Look at the Nike Tiempo Legend VII

Nike footwear designer, Vianney de Montgolfier recently posted a look into the Nike Tiempo Legend VII. A two-year in the making product that started in 2015, Vianney gives us a behind the scenes look into the process of working with the Nike Global Football team to serve some of the best athletes in the world.

Featuring a Fitmesh lining, partial Flyknit upper, Flywire fastening system, seamless K-Leather (Kangaroo Leather) across the vamp with a foam skeleton beneath, the cleats are jam packed with Nike tech. The sole also features a Hypestability plate for added support.

From incredible sketch rederings, product break-downs and early material mock-ups, you can see some of process behind the Nike Tiempo Legend VII, below.
 

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See the Design Process of Filling Pieces’ “Cosmo Fade”

Filling Pieces head designer, Michael Lennheden recently posted a breif look into the initial design of one of FP’s lastest models, the Cosmo Fade.
From initial sketch/render, through to mocking the sole up in modelling clay, see the progession of the Cosmo Fade, below.
 

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A Look at the Design of the UA MERCENARY IX

Designer Dan Coric recently posted a quick look at some of the design process that went into the creation of his Under Armour UA MERCENARY IX slide.

“(This was a) Project that I completed during my internship at Under Armour for SS18. I was tasked with coming up with the next evolution of Dick’s Sporting Good’s highest selling UA product. I had never had the opportunity to work on a slide before so I began just sketching a slide then bringing it into illustrator and doing some blocking exercises.” – Dan

See more of the process, below.
 
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A Look at the Design of the Adidas DAY ONE CRAZY TRAIN

Here’s a quick look and break down of the Adidas DAY ONE CRAZY TRAIN from senior footwear designer, Aurelien Longo.

“Bridging the gap between form and function, the DAY ONE collection brings street-worthy style to technical performance pieces. These men’s training shoes deliver responsive cushioning with the energy return of boost™. A full CORDURA® upper gives them a supportive feel and a distinctive look.” – Aurelien

A new upper on an existing midsole tooling, the CRAZY TRAIN’s feature a one-piece CORDURA® upper, stamped-on 3-Stripes, a toe strap and a DAY ONE graphic on heel and rivet heel loop, which all sit atop a dimpled gum rubber outsole.

Retail price : 180€
Development : Echo Volz
Product manager : Olivia Fernandez

Photography by Footshop
 
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A Closer Look at the Detailing of No.One’s Charlie

As Mr. Eames rightly says, the details are everything. California based footwear brand/atelier, No.One clearly understands that ethos and recently broke down the construction porocess of their incredibly well executed, turned-and-stitched leather eyelet section.

Check out their Instagram post below, and make sure to slide through to see all the videos and images.

SLIDE 1: This small piece of leather is the eyelet on the Charlie. Its easily overlooked but a lot of attention goes into this seemingly simple component.

SLIDE 2: These meticulous steps are taken to ensure a clean, sharp edge. Keep in mind each shoe needs two of these, four per pair.

SLIDE 3: The end result.

SLIDE 4: The details are not the details. They make the design. Charles Eames
 
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Martin Ding’s Pensole WSC Entry Get’s Produced

Congrats to designer Martin Ding for not only placing in the top 4 of Pensole’s 2017 WSC (World Sneaker Championship), but for also getting his design produced. I’m assuming that generally your design only gets produced if you win the competition, but it turns out that a brand EDCO saw Martin’s submission and decided to invest into it and make it a reailty –

“My first ever production is coming out soon! Huge shout out to Pensole crew and Mr. Dwayne Edwards for the support. Special thanks to EDCO brand for investing my design from WSC 2017.” – Martin

Judging from the images below the sneakers came out beautifully, and feature a sock-like upper, welded toe peice and an angled lateral zipper, which all culminate into looking pretty very close to Martin’s initial design renderings (which is always a good thing).

The shoes will be available on T-Mall from January 10th.
 
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Japanese Inspired Sustainable Footwear by Dan Čorić

A quick look at a Japanese inspired sustainable adidas shoe concept by CCS Product Design student Dan Čorić.

A beautifully clean and unique concept, the shoe would ideally be made from donated/recycled materials and wouldnt require any extra materials for it’s packaging due to it’s stackable design.

You can see more of Dan’s concept, below.
 
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Maison Margiela | Masters of the Hybrid-Silhouette

Maison Margiela continues to be one of myu personal favourite brands. They more then anyone, continually create clevery unique alterations on every day designs in ways that are, to be completley honest, a little fkn cheeky, but they execute so well that they somehow seem to pull it off (most of the time).

These particular Skate Hybrids take a classic high-top Vans silhouette, and pair them with an angular leather section that heel wraps around the heel, which also doubles as a fastening section. Taking inspiration from the vulcanized sole unit used by Vans, the upper sits atop what looks to be a slighty chunkier proportioned, cup sole interpretation. It’s almost like Vans and Visvim had a baby.

You’ll either hate these shoes or love them. I happen to land on the latter. For those that reciprocate my feelings, here’s a little more info about them.

“Paying a lavish homage to tried-and-true skate style kicks from the likes of Vans, Margiela uses a black suede upper that wraps onto a buffed leather encompassing tonal stitching. The high-top varies with its ribbed collar and white detailing on the suede. The Italian label adds flourishes to the heels with a white sewn heel counter and decorative leather laces as the body sits atop a white sole.” – Hypebeast
 
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See the development of the ConceptSurgeon Sample

Part of the reason Dominic Chambrone (The Shoe Surgeon) and myself wanted to create the ConceptSurgeon design competition, was to be able to not only share the incredible amount of time and skill that goes into designing a shoe, but also making that concept become a reality.

With the help of the super talented, Jesus Diaz’s photography, we’ve started to document some of the process that’s going into the development of our first winner, Corentin Bricout’s design. From detailing the tech pack call-outs, to sourcing the material, we’ve created a @ConceptSurgeon Instagram account dedicated to sharing the beautiful process of turning this design into a tangible sneaker.

To stay up-to-date on the process, head to the @ConceptSurgeon IG account and hit the follow button.
 
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A Look at the Design Process of the Adidas SKYFREEZE 2

The Adidas Skyfreeze 2 was a project designed and developed during designer, Rafael da Silva time at the adidas CCSP in Brazil.

Tasked with the breif of updating the Skyfreeze model with a fresh version of the upper and tooling, while keeping daily wearability for before and after sport usage, Rafael created a clean yet still slightly techy update to the model.

You can see Rafael’s beautifully laid out project, as well as impressive renders, below.
 
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Concept Surgeon Top 10 | #2 Mad.Works “A SchemeⓇ”

Rounding up the top 10 is @Mad.Works‘ “A SchemeⓇ” submission, a super creative and unique juxtaposition of styles and materials.

“A SchemeⓇ” is a hybrid design between ACRONYM and Hender Scheme. It is a mix between tradition and innovation using premium vachetta leather and advanced textiles. The skeletal design speaks to the origins of footwear, while acting as an exo-skeleton over advanced materials. The design seamlessly exemplifies Hender Scheme’s premium and traditional craftsmanship alongside ACRONYM’s advanced techninal design and aesthetics.” – @Mad.Works

With everything from 3M reflective taping and branding, Gore-Tex stretch fabric and Polartec Delta fabric with Vachetta leather stitched onto the upper in the shape of a foots skeletale structure, the concept was both simple and intricate at the same time. This project was really the first that made us excited to see how designers might interperate the collaboration between these brands in a totally different and unique manner.

See more of the “A SchemeⓇ” project, below.
 

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A Look at the Design Process of the Nike Kyrie 4

Named as the new lead of Irving’s signature line, Nike Designer Benjamin Nethongkom and Kyrie recently unveiled their latest sneaker, the Nike Kyrie 4, as well as giving some insight into the design process.

One of the major areas focused upon for Kyrie’s 4th signature sneaker was Irving’s desire to improve underfoot cushioning while also making him quicker laterally. Adding a “Cushion midsole Zoom Air” heel unit added superior cushioning while the outsole’s zig-zag flex grove now gives Kyrie better traction for those mad dashes to the rim. Similar to previous models, the outsole wraps up and around the foot, though this time it forms a fang like sidewall that emphasizes that the shoe was built for speed.

You can see more of the process behind Kyrie’s latest sneaker, below.

via – SneakerFiles
 
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